Thursday, November 30, 2006

God Bless Mauritius

A month and a half back, I moved from Fiji to Mauritius, an island off of the southeastern coast of Africa. Geographically, Mauritius is the size of Rhode Island. With 1.2 million people, it is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. Nearly 70 percent of the population is of Indian ancestry, though Muslims, Marathis (from the Indian state of Maharastra), Tamils (from contemporary Tamil Nadu), and Telegus (from Andhra Pradesh) all claim distinct identities from the dominant Indian group that descends from Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. Creoles, who are of mixed African and European or Asian ancestry, are the largest non-Indian minority, comprising 27 percent of the population. Chinese (at three percent of the population) and Europeans (at two percent) make up the rest.

While the vast majority of ethnically heterogeneous nations have struggled to form successful democracies, Mauritius has not. Since independence in the late 1960s, Mauritius has held eight free elections, including four that resulted in a peaceful transfer of power. Mauritius is easily the most established and successful democracy in Africa. As the political scientist Henry Srebrnik stated after the 2000 Mauritian election, “Mauritians have once again proved that democracy can work in Africa and that its people need not resign themselves to military dictatorship, kleptocracy, or one-party rule.”

What has been the key to Mauritius’ success? One word: Mauritianness. The country’s varied ethnic and religious groups are united by a common sense of nationhood that supercedes communal interests and emphasizes tolerance and compromise. A comparison between Mauritius and Fiji is useful in highlighting the important role nationalism plays in everyday Mauritian life

In Fiji, there are two ethnic communities that tell different myths of origin, practice different rituals, and profess different values with little bringing the groups together. In Mauritius, distinct communal narratives, rituals, and values still exist, but they stand alongside a powerful set of national narratives, symbols, and values that all Mauritians can draw from. While in Fiji the only visible flags are red Hindu flags, Mauritians fly the national flag in their neighborhoods, outside of their supermarkets, and all around their places of worship. In Fiji, indigenous Fijians are “Fijians” while those of Indian descent are simply “Indians.” In Mauritius, the descendants of African, Chinese, and Indian slaves/laborers are all “Mauritians.” Fiji has no universally revered leaders. Mauritius, however, has the late Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam – a labor leader who spearheaded the fight for independence and is universally heralded as the “father of the nation.” His statue is prominently displayed at one of Mauritius’ main tourist attraction, the Port Louis Waterfront Complex. He is on the one rupee, five rupee, and ten rupee coins. Just about everything in the country is named after him, too. Sir Seewoosagur National Botanical Gardens. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Medical College. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Avenue. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Street. My city, Quatre Bornes, just opened up a new art exhibit. Its name? Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Art Exhibit.

I personally experienced the power of Mauritian nationalism on November 2nd, a Mauritian national holiday that commemorates the arrival of the first indentured laborers from India to Mauritius. This November 2nd was particularly important for the country as the port where Indians first arrived was declared a United Nations World Heritage site. The site, Aapravasi Ghat (“where the water meets land”), is the only UN Heritage site in Mauritius and the only in the world that concerns the migration of Indian indentured laborers.

The occasion could have easily degenerated into Indo-Mauritians celebrating their success as an ethnic community or discussing the superiority of Indian culture. Instead, the event was one for drawing strength in the country’s status as a nation of immigrants (“Nation of immigrants” holds a special meaning in Mauritius since there is no native population (aside from the now-extinct dodo bird), and only became settled in the 1700s.) At the prayer that opened the ceremony, Buddhist, Muslim, Hindu, and Christian leaders each gave a prayer that appealed to their respective communities. Furthermore, a religious leader also read a “Multi-Faith and Universal Prayer” that praised all of Mauritians’ laboring forebears and called on Mauritians today to “work hard and to dedicate ourselves to the cause of the Mauritian nation.”

Speaker after speaker at the commemoration ceremony spoke generally of the spirit and values that all migrants (Indian, African, or Chinese) had contributed to the country rather than speaking only of what Indians had given. Particularly impressive was the insistence by speakers that a fight now be waged to include Le Morne Brabant (a mountain that is an important site in the history of Afro-Mauritian slavery) on the list of heritage sites.

The event ended with the Mahatma Gandhi Institute – a well-funded and expansive educational organization designed to promote Indian culture – putting on a dance drama entitled “Ghat of Destiny.” Through song, dance, and story, “Ghat of Destiny” narrated the oppression Mauritians’ African slaves and Chinese and Indian laborers endured under colonial rule. It ended on a positive note, calling on citizens to appreciate the country’s diversity and celebrate its unity.*

Mauritian nationalism, as evidenced on Indian Arrival Day, serves several crucial functions for Mauritian society. First, it gives the Mauritian people a sense of national purpose, motivating citizens by making them believe they have a special role to play in the world. For example, the speakers and the dance drama reminded Mauritians of who they are and what they believe by narrating how Mauritius was built by migrants. “We are all gathered here today to pay a special tribute to our ancestors whose feet have blessed the Mauritian soil and whose toil, sweat and deep-rooted culture have transformed this small island socially, economically and culturally and have made it a jewel of the Indian Ocean,” Mahendra Gowressoo, the minister of Arts and Culture said. In addition, several speakers, such as the President of the Republic, Anerood Jugnauth, frequently invoked the phrase “model Mauritius” to describe how Mauritius had become the ideal country for African and island countries to follow. It is the job of succeeding generations, the speakers and the drama continued, to carry on this rich legacy by working equally hard and taking pride in the same values.

Second, nationalism works to integrate all Mauritians under a common set of values, leading to a high degree of social cohesion in a country that might otherwise be fractured by its cultural differences. Gowressoo clearly laid out these common Mauritian values, stating “We owe much to our forefathers who have taught us universal values such as responsibility, determination, respect for self and respect for others, mutual sharing, and tolerance and most importantly, the courage to fight against all odds.”

Third, Mauritian nationalism sets a benchmark for praiseworthy values and actions so that whenever the country strays from its foundational beliefs, reforming leaders can appeal to nationalism and call the community back to its higher ideals. Critics of nationalism often assume that it amounts to worship of the state and prevents change. To the contrary, nationalism in a democratic context often sets a high standard for leaders to meet; when they don’t, they must change course or face defeat at the polls. Mauritius is no exception. I have been surprised at the frequency and openness with which Mauritians criticize the ruling government and lament their current economic situation. The current Prime Minister Navin Ramgoolam may be the son of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, but unless he starts living up to Mauritian values, he will no longer be considered the heir to his national legacy.

Footnotes:

* For example, two verses from the final song of “Ghat of Destiny”:
Every Dipavali of yours will bring light to my life
My soul together with the candles on your altar will melt
Flowers will shower in my garden at the dawn of every Spring Festival
When on the night of Eid I embrace you, the moon will shed its rays on us
Thus together we will rewrite our history as one people
Let us therefore be merry, let us sing, come, let us dance

Different foods, clothes, songs and rituals will a beautiful ‘Rangoli’ create
In unison we will utter the same words of unity in different languages
With prayers of all faiths, we will create our own paradise
We will move forward together, towards the same destination
Let the flag of unity be raised, let us all join hands
Let us therefore be merry, let us sing, come, let us dance.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice one :)
Reading ur post makes me feel proud to be a Mauritian. . .
Smitha ~

10:33 AM  

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